THREADING YOUR SEWING MACHINE/SERGER
by Russell Moore
Sewing machine customers call daily seeking solutions to problems, sometimes wanting pricing information for repair service. In some cases, re-threading the machine may solve the problem. The instruction book may not provide a detailed explanation for threading so I have attempted to provide one for you. Let me know if it helps!
Making sure the needle is inserted properly, the operator should follow the threading sequence carefully to insure this process is exactly correct.
Making sure the needle is inserted properly, the operator should follow the threading sequence carefully to insure this process is exactly correct.
1. Mount the thread on the spool pin so the thread can be delivered without a snag. On a horizonal thread delivery system, make sure you use the correct thread cap for the size spool you're using. For vertical spool pins, make sure your thread spool spins evenly and that the thread doesn't drop down around the spool pin.
2. Once the thread spool is mounted properly, raise the presser foot lifter lever and lock the presser foot in the up position. This allows your tension to relax so that you may seat the thread easily between the tension disc and bury the thread to the tension post, insuring your thread is embedded properly into the top tension assembly. Holding the spool with your right hand will keep the thread tight as you drag the thread through the thread path. Using your left hand to thread, pull the thread from the spool to the first thread guide and continue with your left hand pulling the thread down into the tension, pulling up to the catch the take-up spring, then over the top and through the take-up lever. When learned, this is done in one fluid motion. At this point, pull the thread with your left hand, observing no resistence to the thread as you drag it from the take-up lever. Lower the presser bar and pull the thread and feel the resistance resulting from the tension engaging. Understand that the presser bar lifter lever contains the tension release linkage. This little piece of engineering enables you to remove the fabric from underneath the presser foot without breaking the thread. Now, turn the tension dial from zero to nine and feel the differences. The higher the number the greater the resistence. This is important to understand, as later, when using different weights of thread, you'll use this knowlegde to set your tension to achieve a proper top stitch and a well defined bobbin or under stitch.
3. After completing this tension test, you will take the thread from the take-up lever to next guide and then to the needle clamp thread guide. At this point, lower the presser foot, giving your fingers more room around the needle and thread the eye. Pull five or six inches of loose thread from the needle. (Of course, you wouldn't be doing this if your machine had a built-in needle threader.) This will insure you have enough thread to prevent the needle from unthreading itself providing the take-up lever is not in it highest position. Drop your bobbin in place and pull the bobbin thread through its' tension slot. With your left hand holding the needle thread, the foot still down, rotate the handwheel toward you from the top until the take-up lever reaches its highest position. Pulling the needle thread will lift the bobbin thread through the needle plate. Raise your presser foot and draw the bobbin thread to the surface, placing it with the needle thread to the right or rear under the presser foot. This will allow you to see and control the thread tales as you lower the presser foot onto the fabric to begin your seam. Rotate the hand wheel from the top towards you, making a stitch to insure your not breaking anything. Do not turn the hand wheel backward! This is a definite no-no at any time! Making your first stitch manually, you can be confident your machine will sew as expected. If not, at least you've tried everything possible.
Now, you can make plans for a shop visit. A sewing machine service, including a thorough head cleaning, may produce the needed repair plus surprisingly improve the machine's performance. - END
Now, you can make plans for a shop visit. A sewing machine service, including a thorough head cleaning, may produce the needed repair plus surprisingly improve the machine's performance. - END
NEXT INSTRUCTION IS FOR :
Threading Your 4/thread Serger
1.
Don’t be so thrifty. Install new needles, using size 14/90 or smaller! Arm yourself with a good set of serger tweezers!
Don’t be so thrifty. Install new needles, using size 14/90 or smaller! Arm yourself with a good set of serger tweezers!2.Install serger cones on your thread tree and use the stabilizers that come with your machine (those are the little cone shaped things that fit over your spool pins)
Install serger cones on your thread tree and use the stabilizers that come with your machine (those are the little cone shaped things that fit over your spool pins)3.Make sure the presser foot is up so that your tension release will do its job. If you have no tension release, follow these instructions carefully.
Make sure the presser foot is up so that your tension release will do its job. If you have no tension release, follow these instructions carefully.4.You are going to thread your upper looper first, then the lower looper, your right needle and then the left needle. (Some use “over looper” and” under looper” nomenclature.)
You are going to thread your upper looper first, then the lower looper, your right needle and then the left needle. (Some use “over looper” and” under looper” nomenclature.)5.Upper Looper: Drag the thread from the third spool, to the thread tree guide, down to your first machine thread guide just before the tension module. When pulling the thread through the tension disc, hold the thread spool end of the thread with your right hand and with your left hand slide the thread between the disc or into the tension assembly and through the next thread guide. At this point, pull the thread slightly and turn the tension dial to a higher number to see if you can feel the tension increase or decrease as you turn it to a lower number. (If you have a tension release, you may have to lower the presser foot to engage the tension.) This is how you check to see if your tension is threaded properly.
Upper Looper: Drag the thread from the third spool, to the thread tree guide, down to your first machine thread guide just before the tension module. When pulling the thread through the tension disc, hold the thread spool end of the thread with your right hand and with your left hand slide the thread between the disc or into the tension assembly and through the next thread guide. At this point, pull the thread slightly and turn the tension dial to a higher number to see if you can feel the tension increase or decrease as you turn it to a lower number. (If you have a tension release, you may have to lower the presser foot to engage the tension.) This is how you check to see if your tension is threaded properly.6.Continue threading, using your tweezers as needed, according to your threading diagram, making sure to thread each thread guide in the thread path. Missing one guide can cost you and the sequence is essential!
Continue threading, using your tweezers as needed, according to your threading diagram, making sure to thread each thread guide in the thread path. Missing one guide can cost you and the sequence is essential!7.Thread through the eye of the upper looper and let the thread lie free. Do not try to put this thread under the presser foot or anywhere on the bed surface.
Thread through the eye of the upper looper and let the thread lie free. Do not try to put this thread under the presser foot or anywhere on the bed surface.8.Lower Looper: Thread your lower looper using the same strategy.
Lower Looper: Thread your lower looper using the same strategy.9.Needles: Thread your right needle first, using the guides on the right side of the needle holder. Lowering the presser foot will give you more room to maneuver around the needle eye. Use your tweezers when threading the eye of the needle. With some models, swinging the upper cutter out of the way can be helpful!
Needles: Thread your right needle first, using the guides on the right side of the needle holder. Lowering the presser foot will give you more room to maneuver around the needle eye. Use your tweezers when threading the eye of the needle. With some models, swinging the upper cutter out of the way can be helpful!10.Thread the left needle. Make sure you have ample length of thread from the needle to drag under the presser foot and to the rear.
Thread the left needle. Make sure you have ample length of thread from the needle to drag under the presser foot and to the rear.11.Place you fabric under the foot along side the upper knife and lower the presser bar. Hold the two needle threads with your left hand, but do not pull them (one if you’re using a 3/thread overlock or rolling a hem). Rotate the hand wheel by hand to make your first stitch. If you feel confident that you’ve threaded correctly, step on the foot control and begin serging. The thread tails can be trimmed when you’ve completed the seam or earlier if you’re wanting to be neat. Do not pull your fabric. Adjust your stitch length to a longer stitch if you want the fabric to move faster.
Place you fabric under the foot along side the upper knife and lower the presser bar. Hold the two needle threads with your left hand, but do not pull them (one if you’re using a 3/thread overlock or rolling a hem). Rotate the hand wheel by hand to make your first stitch. If you feel confident that you’ve threaded correctly, step on the foot control and begin serging. The thread tails can be trimmed when you’ve completed the seam or earlier if you’re wanting to be neat. Do not pull your fabric. Adjust your stitch length to a longer stitch if you want the fabric to move faster.12.Once you’ve establish your “stitch chain”, you can begin sewing another piece by simply raising the presser foot “toe” and sliding the material into the cutter. Do not attempt to pull the thread from the rear, as once the “knitting” process has begun, you will not be able to pull the thread from the needle eye.
Once you’ve establish your “stitch chain”, you can begin sewing another piece by simply raising the presser foot “toe” and sliding the material into the cutter. Do not attempt to pull the thread from the rear, as once the “knitting” process has begun, you will not be able to pull the thread from the needle eye.13.Trouble shooting: If you break your lower looper thread, you must unthread your needles before attempting to thread the lower looper. The needle threads wrap around the lower looper and should you rethread the looper you will trap the needle threads and the result will be thread lock, broken needles and maybe even a broken lower looper.
Trouble shooting: If you break your lower looper thread, you must unthread your needles before attempting to thread the lower looper. The needle threads wrap around the lower looper and should you rethread the looper you will trap the needle threads and the result will be thread lock, broken needles and maybe even a broken lower looper.14.Rolling a hem: Is easy! Use the right needle only. Remove or withdraw the stitch finger. Turn your lower looper to 7 or 8. Adjust the cutting width to suit your desired result. Moving the cutter out will leave more fabric to roll. This will add dimension and texture to your rolled hem. Lower upper looper thread tension if needed. Increase the needle tension if needed. What is going on? The lower looper is pulling the thread to the backside of the seam. Increasing the needle thread tension will pull the seam thread tighter and eliminate any little loop on the underside of the seam. Lower the upper looper tension will encourage the lower looper to pull the thread directly under the needle thread. Essentially the lower looper thread is acting like a bobbin thread on your regular sewing machine. Increasing the needle thread always pulls that bobbin thread up. With a serger, the upper looper thread is the thread you see wrapping the edge and all three threads should meet directly under the needle to produce that sweet rolled hem you’re looking for.
Rolling a hem: Is easy! Use the right needle only. Remove or withdraw the stitch finger. Turn your lower looper to 7 or 8. Adjust the cutting width to suit your desired result. Moving the cutter out will leave more fabric to roll. This will add dimension and texture to your rolled hem. Lower upper looper thread tension if needed. Increase the needle tension if needed. What is going on? The lower looper is pulling the thread to the backside of the seam. Increasing the needle thread tension will pull the seam thread tighter and eliminate any little loop on the underside of the seam. Lower the upper looper tension will encourage the lower looper to pull the thread directly under the needle thread. Essentially the lower looper thread is acting like a bobbin thread on your regular sewing machine. Increasing the needle thread always pulls that bobbin thread up. With a serger, the upper looper thread is the thread you see wrapping the edge and all three threads should meet directly under the needle to produce that sweet rolled hem you’re looking for.THE END
